Showing posts with label Botanical. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Botanical. Show all posts

Sunday, 10 December 2017

Product Review: Lutea Watercolours




It was a wonderful surprise to receive an entire pack of the Lutea range (worth almost £300/EUR340/US$400) when I asked to review it, and honestly, they were a pleasure to review, and I've not been able to put them down! I was a little dubious at first - I'd actually bought 3 colours out of curiosity already, but I thought the palette of the whole range might be a little limiting - I actually found out that this is a REALLY versatile palette. Ok sure, there's no true warm red, warm yellow or warm blue, but the net effect of that is that all mixes are lovely and muted and soft and even though very few of the paints share any pigments, they're all "of a type" in hue and colour depth. I can see a lot of use for painting works at sunset or in subdued light, for example, which makes colours mute slightly, or for etherial dreamscapes and fantasy works. 

The Lutea watercolours are made by Anne-Sylvie Godeau in Belgium and they are available from Jackson's in the UK, who have international shipping at good prices. The palette is as follows - I talk in the accompanying video about how the paints are made and what plants they are from, so please consult it for more details. Whilst Lutea takes its name from the Latin feminine adjective lutea, meaning "the colour of saffron" (e.g. one could wear a stola lutea (saffron coloured women's gown) or calceus luteus (saffron coloured shoe) - the adjective changes gender to match what it describes), there is no saffron-derived paint - but you can make a similar hue with the Yellow and the Orange mixed together, of course ;)



Prices are for Jackson's and are for 9mL tubes - I've heard some people talk about these paints as "overpriced" but actually, if you look at the price per 5mL (standard watercolour size), you're looking at £9.50 to £12.78, which is well within the price ranges of Winsor and Newton Series 4 colours as well as Daniel Smith and Qor! Personally, for what they are and the effort required to produce them, and given that they use handmade pigments made in-house by a small company not a giant pigment house, I think the prices are actually really reasonable for a high-quality high-end paint.

Pink - Madder Lake (NR9 Madder Lake) [£19.50]
Red - Madder Lake (NR9 Madder Lake) [£17.10]
Carmine - Cochineal Lake (NR4 Cochineal) [£23.00]
Violet - Logwood Lake (NBk1 Logwood Lake) [£19.50]
Blue - Indigo (NB1 Indigo) [£21.50] [£23.00]
Grey - Strawberry Lake (N/A) [£23.00]
Brown - Walnut Lake (NBr7 Juglone) [£23.00]
Dark Green - Meadowsweet Lake (N/A) [£17.10]
Light Green - Meadowsweet Lake (N/A) + Indigo (NB1 Indigo) [£17.10]
Yellow - Goldenrod Lake (N/A) [£21.50]
Dark Orange - Thyme Lake (N/A) [£19.50]
Orange - Cosmos Lake (N/A) [£21.50]

The lightfastness ratings are all fairly good - relating to 50-100 years of normal display in most of the paints - I mentioned Violet was one of the lower ones in my video but some of the others are also a little low too. That said, for most painters, our work isn't going to be hung for 500 years so why worry? Quite honestly, it's a bit arrogant to assume you're so important that 100 vs 500 years really matters!

Lightfastness ratings of Lutea watercolours as determined by Green'ing International, Loire Les Marais, France. The Blue Wool Scale goes from 1 (poor) to 8 (excellent) but these paints were not tested for levels 7 and 8, hence those rated 6 I have listed here as "greater than or equal to 6" as further tests may show their lightfastness is even higher). I have also included the equivalent ratings on the ATSM Scale, which goes from I (Excellent) to V (Poor), along with how long such ratings correlate to normal display conditions - NOT based on direct summer sunlight, but normal display conditions
PaintBlue Wool ScaleATSMHow long should it last under normal display conditions?
Pink
≥ 6
II
50-100+ years
Red
≥ 6
II
50-100+ years
Carmine
≥ 6
II
50-100+ years
Violet
4-5
III
15-50 years
Blue
≥ 6
II
50-100+ years
Grey
5
III
15-50 years
Brown
5-6
II-III
15-100 years
Dark Green
5-6
II-III
15-100 years
Light Green
≥ 6
II
50-100+ years
Yellow
≥ 6
II
50-100+ years
Dark Orange
5-6
II-III
15-100 years
Orange
≥ 6
II
50-100+ years

In this video I mention that these paints are particularly suited to a number of types of painter, and that I would spell out which colours are particularly useful for each group to just get started without needing to buy all the colours:

Landscape artists - Dark Green, Light Green, Blue, Brown, Grey, Yellow, Dark Orange
Seascape artists - Blue, Grey, Dark Orange, Light Green
Botanical artists - Red, Pink, Violet, Carmine, Light Green, Yellow
Portrait artists - Dark Orange, Brown, Grey, Yellow, Pink (and Zinc White Gouache - see below)

Products Used In This Video

In addition to the Lutea paints that I have linked above to purchase, the following other products are used in this video:

[£16.50]
I have done a video about these brushes, I love them. I used the 1/2" flat and the 8 round in this video, which you can buy as a set.

Golden Acrylic Medium GAC-100
[£11.60 for 236mL bottle - I show the larger size in this video]
This is what I used to show that you can make acrylic glazes with these paints easily. It's a really useful medium for acrylic painting and one of a range that Golden produces.

This is what I used to show that these paints could be opacified with gouache - you can make awesome flesh tones with Zinc White gouache, Orange from this range and then use the Brown and Grey to add shading and shadow. I like the W&N Gouache a lot - it re-wets easily if you want to dry it down (add a drop of glycerine to each half pan so that it doesn't crack when dry) and it goes a very long way!

Colourworks BRUSHO - Black
[£4.26 for 15g jar]
I used this to add texture and interest to a wash - it's a powdered watercolour that is a lot of fun to use.

Winsor and Newton Gum Arabic 
[£5.60 for 75mL] 
This is really useful for making washes smoother and it makes the colours seem more vibrant. It's the vehicle used in most paint brands - some use Gum Senegal (aka Senegalese Gum Arabic or Kordofan Gum Arabic) instead, and Qor by Golden uses Aquazol, which I've explained previously. If you think about oil painting, adding extra linseed oil (the vehicle of oil paints) into your paints gives you longer drying times, more time to work the paint, a glossy finish and a more vibrant, transparent colour - Gum Arabic added to watercolours does exactly the same thing, and I found it worked beautifully with these watercolours by Jackson's - both the pans and the tubes.

Winsor and Newton Ox Gall  
[£5.60 for 75mL] 
I used Daler and Rowney's ox gall in the video but to be honest, I prefer the W&N one for both quality and price. Ox gall is a combination of bile salts from cattle bile obtained from abattoir waste - deoxycholate and so on - and they act as a surfactant to reduce the surface tension and promote better wetting of the pigment grains - just like soap would do when washing the dishes really. If you paint on some high-end papers such as Arches by Canson or Millford by St Cuthbert's Mill that have really very hard sizing, a touch of ox gall in your water can help to wet the paper without the water beading up - of all watercolour mediums, this and Gum Arabic (below) are the most useful. Ox gall is usually sold as a solution in a bottle which can be a bit inconvenient, but if you would prefer a solid ox gall that you can keep in your palette, you can also get that - I use it en plein air a lot and these Schmincke pans of it last AGES and smell of lavender, which is nice! 
Half-Pan Schmincke Onetz [£3.20]
Full-Pan Schmincke Onetz [£4.80]
If you would prefer a vegan alternative, there is one sold under the Qor brand by Golden [£9.60], which is particularly popular.

[£11.10 for 10" by 14" 12 sheet pad]
This is a great "every day" paper - it's chemical pulp (wood) so not too expensive and it's quite hard wearing - this is the paper I tell all beginners to move to as soon as they can and then once used to it, move on to a cotton paper - but even though I use a 100% cotton paper for actual works, I use Bockingford for day to day use, sketching, studies and warm-ups as well as en plein air work.

The Langton Prestige Cold Press 140lb 100% cotton paper
[£16.80 for 10" by 12" 12 sheet pad]
This is one of the more economical 100% cotton papers and it's good for beginners and every day use - I think it makes for a lovely sketchbook if you bind the paper sheets into a nice binding and give it as a gift or use it for all paintings around one theme. It's quite hard wearing but the sizing is not very hard so lifting isn't always easy - though it's hard-wearing enough to handle a scrubber brush.

Sunday, 17 September 2017

Tiptoe through the tulips - acrylic on burlap





No, dear readers, I am not going to inflict upon you the true horror that was Tiny Tim. I'm instead going to inflict upon you the true horror of a little scribbling I did in my Dina Wakley Media Journal on Saturday night just before bed. I wanted to use one of the burlap pages and I had seen a pretty burlap painting of some waterlilies that Dina had painted last month, and it inspired me a lot - mostly the colours - to try painting on burlap again. As it was close to bedtime, this really IS just a sketch!


"Tiptoe Through The Tulips" (acrylic on burlap)

WHAT I USED:

Ranger Dina Wakley Media Journal (BUY NOW USA, UK)
(I used a righthand burlap page - you will want to put some plastic or acetate under it as paint will go through, but that could also make a cool grid-like background on the next page if you want)

Daler and Rowney CRYLA acrylic paints in:
   Titanium White (BUY NOW USA, UK) [PW6 Titanium White]
   Quinacridone Deep Purple (BUY NOW USA, UK) [PR122 Quinacridone Red]
   Permanent Violet (BUY NOW USA, UK) [PR122 Quinacridone Red and PV23 Dioxazine Violet]
   Yellow Green (BUY NOW USA, UK) [PY74LF Arylide Yellow 5GX (lightfast version), PW6 Titanium White, PG17 Chromic oxide]
   Cadmium Yellow (BUY NOW USA, UK) [PY35 Cadmium zinc sulfide]

3/4" Golden Taklon paintbrush
(these are cheap - don't use costly brushes for acrylic painting, no need!)

Water and a damp rag to clean brush

WHAT I DID:

STEP 1: I sketched a couple of vague tulip-flower shapes (or maybe they are poppies?) with a wet brush and the Titanium White and then filled it in with the same colour blended with both of the purples, to give light at the top and shade at he bottom. A little yellow at the very bottom of each flower created brown, which helped with shading. 



STEP 2: I sketched the stems and leaves in white again (I didn't bother to clean my brush at all during this painting, so some purple carried over), and then overlaid them with green and yellow. I also added some "ground" by just mixing all the colours ad hoc below the stems.



At each step, I roughly cleaned my brush on the edges of the burlap, to give it some shade.

Sunday, 10 April 2016

Beauty of Springtime

I thought I'd break up the art posts with some gardening - after all, it is one of my hobbies too, right? First of all, I have a GARDEN CENTRE HAUL to share! On Wednesday, dear friend B took me to the garden centre - I cannot drive and I also cannot carry heavy things due to my disability - I only have one free hand at any point in time. Given we both love plants and I'm liable to spend far more than him, thus making him feel better, he takes me to garden centres, helps me with large bags of compost and so on. I was relatively restrained, spending about £40 but entirely on plants this time - no pots or compost needed.


First off, here are eight beautiful Fuchsia spp. L. - the cultivars here have a wide range of flower colours and shapes and foliage colours too - they are as follows:
Right Column (from top) Golden Swingtime, El Camino, Rosemarie Higham and Minirose.
Left Column (from top) Insulinde, Genii, Alison Patricia and Caroline's Joy.

I have run these - still in their original pots - around the front of my big pot cluster - once the tall spring flowers die down, these beauties will come into flower!


I love herbs both to cook with and as garden plants. They look beautiful and you get wonderful smells from them. This beautiful Thymus vulgaris L. (German thyme aka Garden thyme) cultivar is called Faustini and smells amazing. I already have another T. vulgaris, but it was 3 herbs for £5.00 and this was the third, basically.

This one is a bit odd - it's labelled both "Garden Mint" and "Mentha spicata", but garden mint is Mentha sachalinensis (Briquet ex Miyabe and Miyake) KudΓ΄, not Mentha spicata L., as that is spearmint. I've only just realised this - I'll sniff a leaf and see if it smells of spearmint tomorrow. It certainly does look like M. spicata.

This one is is labelled properly at least! Mentha × piperita L. - the peppermint, which is a hybrid of the above M. spicata and the watermint, M. aquatica L. - I love those purple stems so much! I've mixed these herbs along with my others - another T. vulgaris, a struggling little Salvia officinalis L. - the garden sage or common sage - and a very happy Melissa officinalis L. - the lemon balm. Cute fact - the lemon balm's flowers attract the honey bee (Apis spp.) - and such bees were known in ancient Greece as "melissa". I love to attract insects to my garden so I love to have flowers they can enjoy as much as I do. My herbs sit amongst my other pots of all sorts of spring and summer flowers - a separate "herb garden" wastes their beauty - but then I even mix in my vegetables!

This sorry-looking pile of twigs is actually a Callicarpa bodinieri H. LΓ©veillΓ©, Bodinier's beautyberry - so named because of the wonderful bright purple berries it will produce later in the year.

Slightly happier-looking I've planted two fruit bushes together - on the right is a Rubeus idaeus L. - the European raspberry - but this is a special cultivar - Fallgold, which is going to produce beautiful golden yellow fruit! The little plant on the left is the poor cousin of one of my favourite fruits of all time - it is Chaenomeles japonica Thunb. Lindl. ex Spach - the Japanese quince, which is not to be confused with the true quince, Cydonia oblongata Mill., which is my favourite fruit of all time. Apparently one can still cook the fruits from the Japanese quince, so if it ever has any of decent size, I'll be trying that! Beyond them you can see one of my grow-bags - this one has got French beans, courgettes and a summer squash planted in it - I'll do another post on those.

And finally, the crowning glory of my garden right now - standing right above the crowd is this beautiful-yet-smelly beauty - the Kaiser's crown (Fritillaria imperialis L. aka the imperial fritillary) - named because those big dangling red flowers are kind of like an emperor's crown...yeah right. This beauty came to me in about September last year when I picked up a bulb for about £3.00 and the instructions to said to plant it sideways so it didn't rot. It STANK - really musty fox-like or even cannabis-like (allegedly) smell - so I planted it in a huge pot and surrounded it with a ring of Viola spp. Cut to 2 weeks ago, I was out in the garden and could smell this plant and thought it must be about to come through the soil - I checked the middle of the pot, nothing. Then I realised it had grown THROUGH the plastic pot, breaking it, and had erupted to the side of it, wit a 1 metre tall spike of leaves with these big red flower buds under it, ready to open. And my word - it STINKS...! I'm told it should stop smelling now the flowers are out but nope, it still stinks!!!






Thursday, 7 April 2016

Watercolour: Cherry Tree

Last night, after painting my colour chart, I was a little bored so wanted to try a paint-spattering method to create a tree. I've seen loads of people do this on YouTube and so on and thought I'd give it a try - all you do is make a fairly strong mix of paint and water and spatter it onto the page then, once dry, paint in the trunk and boughs. Close to my apartment are rows of ornamental cherry trees (Prunus serrulata Lindl.), so I did it in that style, using Winsor and Newton Professional Watercolours in 448 Opera Rose, 502 Permanent Rose, 94 Cadmium Red, 587 Rose Madder Genuine and Winsor and Newton Designers Gouache in 748 Zinc White - each one alone and in mixtures with the others. I then painted in the boughs and trunk in a range of browns - but they're not finished as I need to re-paint them in a cooler brown really. 

It was a lot of fun, but very messy work! The leaves are ok - not perfect - and the trunk (etc) are just placeholders that I need to paint over in a cold brown. I'm going to try doing the same with autumn colours at some point.





Wednesday, 6 April 2016

Colourchart - Winsor and Newton Gouache

Back in the January sales, I picked up a Winsor & Newton Designers Gouache Primary Colour Paint Set from my local art shop, where it was reduced to about £9.99 I think - a bargain! It contains 6 tubes of 14mL Designer's Gouache (sorry, the name officially is "Designers Gouache" but the lack of apostrophe annoys the hell out of me!) - which is Winsor and Newton's professional-grade gouache - which normally retail for cheaper than watercolours but more than acrylics. They are:

527 Primary Yellow (PY74, PY138) RRP £4.85
524 Primary Red (PR170) RRP £4.85
523 Primary Blue (PB15) RRP £4.85
484 Permanent Green Middle (PY3, PY74, PG7) RRP £5.20
331 Ivory Black (PBk9) RRP £4.85
748 Zinc White (PW5) £4.85
Total RRP: £29.45
Set RRP: £24.50

So that's a nice saving even at the RRP and a lovely saving when you get it for £9.99 (£1.67 per tube).

I had a little play with them and set them into one of my Frisk folding palettes (20 well) (also sold by Reeves and various other companies - it's the same palette, however!) at the time - I added glycerol but they still cracked, though they're perfectly usable. I felt the range was a bit limited so I bought some more colours to add to the mix, as individual tubes:

508 Permanent Yellow Deep (PY65) RRP £4.85
28 Bengal Rose (PR169) RRP £5.20
660 Ultramarine (PB29) RRP £4.85
554 Raw Umber (PY42, PBr7) RRP £4.85
552 Raw Sienna (PY42, PR101, PY65) RRP £4.85

Yellows: PY3 = Hansa Yellow 10G; PY42 = Yellow Iron Oxide; PY65 = Hansa Yellow 65; PY74 = Arylide Yellow 5GX; PY138 = Quinophthalone Yellow.
Reds: PR101 = Synthetic Iron Oxide Red; PR169 = Rhodamine; PR170 = Naphthol Red AS.
Blues: PB15 = Phthalocyanine Blue; PB29 = Ultramarine Blue.
Greens: PG7 = Phthalocyanine Green BS.
Blacks: PBk9 = Bone Black.
Whites: PW5 = Lithopone.

Last night I was a little bored, so I took out my gouache palette and made a colourchart on a sheet from a block of Langton Prestige 14 × 10" cold pressed 100% cotton watercolour paper. I enjoyed mixing the colours and painting (fairly) neat squares. I don't do a full grid, since they're reflective (in that every mix appears twice), so I just paint a triangle. I also added a set of levels using the white and black and a tint of each colour, using the white.


The colours from top to bottom (and left to right) are Primary Yellow, Permanent Yellow Deep, Primary Red, Bengal Rose, Primary Blue, Ultramarine, Permanent Green Middle, Raw Umber and Raw Sienna. The actual single colours without mixing are rightmost on each row of colours - on the "steps" of the triangle. The column of colours to the right are tints and you can just see the levels on the edge to the right.


I really enjoyed putting this together, but as always, the blocked paper buckled a bit. I painted it using a Number 4 Sable. I am really looking forward to using my gouaches a bit more often now that I know the range of beautiful purples and greens they produce - absolutely perfect for botanical paintings!